Friday, December 30, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Il Colosseo
Taken November, 2011 - Roma Centro

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Perched
Taken October, 2011 - Roma Centro

Monday, November 7, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Pantheon
Taken October 2011 - Roma Centro

The Road Less Traveled

There are two sentiments I have heard again and again from family, friends and acquaintances when discussing my life in Italy. One is "You are lucky!" The other is "You are brave!" These are both, to some extent, true.

luck·y/ˈləkē/Adjective: Having, bringing, or resulting from good luck: "a lucky escape".

Synonyms: fortunate - happy - successful - providential

If the dictionary has anything to say about it, then certianly I am lucky to be where I am today. A string of life's circumstances has nudged me along for the past 3 years, helpfully prodding me in the direction I think I was "meant" to follow. Wandering into a California bar at midnight on vacation, and happening to meet Roland, also vacationing through California. He almost didn't stop in that bar on that particular evening and, having not felt well early in the night, neither had I. But we both did, and had we not, I would most certainly not be here today. Next, shortly before Roland's first visit to Chicago, I lost my job. At the time, it was tragic and terrifying. The economy was plummeting and I had never felt so uncertain about my future. However this, unbeknownst to me at the time, was yet another blessing. Unable to immediately secure another job, I spent the next year traveling back and forth across the ocean and focusing my attention on my personal life instead of my career life. In short, ultimately, this has been the road which lead to Rome. I am blissfully content in the best relationship of my life, with a steady teaching job, great friends and family, and an adventure waiting anytime I walk out the front door. Am I the high-flying successful career woman that I imagined I would be on the cusp of turning 30? No. But life had other plans for me. Here I sit today, in our cozy Roman flat, drinking Italian espresso and writing this post. The sun is shining, it's November, and the windows are open. Am I lucky? Absolutely.

brave/brāv/Adjective: Ready to face and endure danger or pain; showing courage.

Noun: People who are ready to face and endure danger or pain.
Verb: Endure or face (unpleasant conditions or behavior) without showing fear: "we had to brave the heat".

Synonyms: adjective. courageous - gallant - valiant - bold - plucky - valorous
verb. defy - dare - challenge - face - beard


I've always felt slightly uncomfotable when people comment on how brave I must be to give up my American life for one in Italy. When I think of bravery, I think of military soldiers, policemen, even extreme sportsmen or exterminators (bugs...shudder). Bravery, as the definition states, implies some measure of valor or fear-defying action. I've always thought of my move not as bravery, but as a leap of faith. Quite a large leap admittedly, but one I quite happily took. Last weekend, my employer held a meeting for all of its teachers. The point of the meeting was to have a somewhat belated look at the school's policies, etc., and as a meet and greet for all of the employees. As I got to know my fellow teachers, who almost all happened to be American, I looked around the room and realized I was in very good company. A former lawyer, a former consultant, and various other former business professionals from all walks of life were gathered together in a small room. Most had given up their comfortable and profitable lives in the States to be where they were now - struggling a little bit, counting their euros carefully, but blissfully not caring. Because they had also taken the leap - they were doing something that not many people do - packing up all of their belongings, bidding a fond farewell to familiarity, and starting a new life. Living an adventure and welcoming all that comes with it; be it good or bad. I spoke with one woman who described giving away or selling everything she owned in her California home, including her BMW (except for 4 boxes of keepsakes left in storage) before she moved to Rome. Another arrived with only a backpack of belongings. Yet another came for a short vacation and then never left. All of them arrived with far less security than I did when I moved here for Roland. I found myself, quite to my surprise, uttering to them those words which I never really thought I deserved "Wow...you are really brave!" So...maybe there is something to be said for that word after all. Am I brave? Maybe a little.

I will close this post with a poem by Robert Frost which I have always loved. Seems suitable here.

The Road Not Taken
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth.

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same.

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I--
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Stormy Sunday Skies - Balcony View
Taken 6 November 2011 - Garbatella, Roma

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Laundry Day
Taken 30 October 2011 - Garbatella, Roma

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Vatican Sunshine
Taken August 2011 - San Pietro in Vaticano

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Afternoon Treats
Taken October 2011 - Roma Centro

Monday, October 17, 2011

Foto del Giorno

One of Many Fountains
Taken 17 October 2011 - Roma Centro

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Art of Villa Borghese
Taken August 2011 - Villa Borghese, Roma

Thursday, October 13, 2011

The Sophisticated Palate of the Italian Bambino

Food is very important to Italian people. As is true for many other aspects of life in Italy, food is steeped in tradition. Certain things are eaten at certain times, and in certain ways. These unspoken rules are part of the way of life here. Breakfast is a cafe and a pastry (Eggs and toast for breakfast? Ha!). Lunch is between 12-3, and dinner is from 7 or 8 until 10. Try to eat in any quality Italian restaurant outside of those times and you will be out of luck! Dinner is several courses long, and choosing only one course for your meal with be met, almost surely, with annoyance and a dismissive look down the nose of any restaurant waitstaff. Certain shapes of pasta traditionally come paired with certain sauces, and are eaten in particular ways. For instance, I once asked for parmesan cheese to sprinkle over my penne arrabiata (penne with spicy tomato sauce)  and was given a very questioning look by the waiter. The man at the next table, eating spaghetti pomodoro (spaghetti with tomato and basil sauce)  was left with a pot of cheese when his meal was delivered. It was later explained to me by an Italian that this is just the way it is - no one eats cheese with arrabiata sauce. Just because. No matter the traditions, Italians take very great pride in the food of their country, and rightly so. I'd have to agree with them that it is some of the best in the world.

One tradition I've noticed here is that adults don't seem to feed their babies or children any differently than they feed themselves. While in the USA, any restaurant will have a seperate menu full of kid-friendly (usually quite unhealthy) options, the kids' menu does not exist here. No chicken fingers, no mac and cheese, and no corn dogs are to be found. From the time children are babies, their palates see more culinary action than I will admit mine ever has. Evidence of this is found in the baby food section of the supermarket:

"I'll have the steak...and my infant will have the prosciutto with mixed cheeses, please."


A good selection: Trout, Horse, Mozzarella, and Emmenthal cheese


And my personal favorite of the bunch...rabbit.

I've also read, somewhere, that it is typical for baby foods to be mixed together with olive oil before feeding. Why? I have no idea. Some things I won't even begin to try to understand...

Foto del Giorno

It's Seen a Few Miles...
Taken September 2011 - Roma Centro

Monday, October 10, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Old Olive Tree on the Side of the Road
Taken 10 October 2011 - Roma

Victory!


Today's pre-lunch prosecco toast is brought to you by my brand new, hard earned and highly anticipated CARTA DI SOGGIORNO! Today, finally, we were victorious! We arrived this morning back at the Immigration Office of Rome (also affectionately known as the Seventh Circle of Hell) bright and early. We joined an already big, and growing by the minute, crowd of confused foreigners trying to get on with their business. We felt like seasoned pros at this point, and managed to avoid a few of the rookie pitfalls...no standing in the wrong "line," and no exploding Coca-Cola for me. An officer took my receipt and waved me in the general direction of an empty window to wait to be called. Two hours of waiting (and looking nervously around, trying to confirm we were standing in front of the correct empty window) later, a man appeared with a large stack of folders and began calling out names. I watched the first unlucky few, after having waited hours, get brusquely turned away for one technicality or another. Then they called my name. As I walked up toward the window, I could make out a large, fancy and official looking document with my picture on it - covered in every manner of fancy stamps and seals. Success! I signed quickly and hurried off with my document, suppressing fist pumps the whole way. To add icing to the cake, my papers listed my permit as Permanente - meaning it never expires, which means I walked away from Roma's immigration madhouse for the last time today. So, needless to say, if ever there was a time to drink before lunch, today was it! Cheers!

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Good Spot for a Nap
Taken 19 September 2011 - Trastevere, Roma

Friday, September 23, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Morning Coffee
Taken 19 September 2011 - Trastevere, Roma

Monday, September 19, 2011

Foto del Giorno

1960's Fiat 500
Taken 19 September 2011 - Trastevere, Roma

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Laundry Saturday
Taken 17 September 2011 - Trastevere, Roma

Friday, September 16, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Old Fashioned Door Mail Slot
Taken 16 September 2011 - Roma Centro

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Summer Afternoon Breeze
Taken August 2011 - Castello di Volpaia, Italy

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Easy Cuisine

Cuisine is easily one of my favorite things about living in Italy, which is home to fresh, uncomplicated food that is simply delicious. I love Italian pasta dishes above all else (though pizza comes in an arguable second). A few years ago, I admit, I was a jarred-pasta-sauce kind of girl. My favorite pasta dinner included boiling up a box of spaghetti, dumping in a jar of Ragu or Prego, and shaking a plastic tub of powdered parmesan over the top. Dinner was served, and I was happy. My, how things have changed...

Living in Italy has completely altered my culinary style. Since my first stay here nearly two years ago, I have cracked open the lid of nary a bottle of jarred pasta sauce. I've discovered, partly through the inspiration of living in this country, and partly through desperation (everything in the supermarket is different here) that I love to cook. I love to go into the kitchen, open up the cupboards, pull out an oversized pot, and create. Anything on hand is fair game...and I've found that I'm pretty good at it. Pasta sauces have definitely become a favorite. Anyone who knows me, has without a doubt been stuck listening to me preach about the virtues of making homemade pasta sauces. It's simple, healthy, and the difference in taste is incredible.

A difficult element for many, of course, is time. With most of my friends raising young families and juggling jobs and a million other things at once, they start to roll their eyes the minute I launch into my "All it takes is tomatoes and time" monolouge. I am writing this post because I have stumbled upon a pretty fantastic little recipe, which I liked so much I could not resist sharing. One of my favorite dishes to order  in Italian restaurants is a simple Spaghetti Pomodoro (spaghetti with tomato sauce). Yes, I know, how boring. But here in Italy, it is not actually boring...it's a simple, classsic blend of flavors with perfectly cooked pasta and just enough smooth, delicious sauce to coat. I found a recipe which is a pretty darn good replication of some of the Spaghetti Pomodoro I've eaten here in Italy. What makes it outstanding, to me, is its simplicity. This meal took me ten minutes to make, from start to finish, and tasted like it could have taken much more. For those of you busy people I have been trying to convert to homemade sauces, give this a try. It makes a light, uncomplicated, and tasty little dish.

Triple Tomato Penne

Recipe published in Food and Wine Magazine

Serves 3-4 as a main dish. Or two if you're feeding Roland.

1 pound penne (500g)
2 medium tomatoes (or one can diced)
4 oil-packed sun dried tomatoes, drained
2 tablespoons tomato paste
4 large basil leaves
1 garlic clove
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and Pepper, to taste
Fresh parmesan cheese, if desired

- In a large pot, cook the penne until al dente (this is crucial in Italian pasta dishes. Pasta should still have a firm bite. No mushy pasta!).
-Meanwhile, combine all other ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.
-Drain the pasta and return to pot. Toss hot pasta with sauce straight from blender (no need to pre-heat sauce).
-Season well with salt and pepper, to taste. Sprinkle with fresh parmesan, if desired.

Note: It will probably look as if there is not enough sauce for a whole box of pasta, but prepare as directed...The sauce is meant to only lightly coat the pasta, not drown it. And yes, I really should have photographed this dish. But it wasn't until I finished off my plate a few minutes ago that it dawned on me to share, so my apologies. If only there were enough for one more serving...purely for photograpic purposes, of course.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Self Portrait - Driving through the Mountains.
Taken 3 September 2011 - East Coast of Italy

Sunday, September 11, 2011

A Day to Remember

Today marks the 10th anniversary of the terrorist attacks on 9/11. I can barely remember what I ate for lunch yesterday, but I can still remember every moment of that fateful day ten years ago. It's amazing how time flies. Being so far away from home, marking this anniversary here in Italy feels different. I really found myself noticing the lack of media coverage as well as missing the general feeling of patriotism and rememberance I think we as Americans feel every year on this date. Coincidentally, Roland and I had agreed to drop by an art exhibit this afternoon. The exhibit was held by our landlord, who is an artist from Germany. The work we have seen of hers is quite eccentric, and we had no idea of the theme or what to expect of the exhibit, but wanted to stop by to show support and see her latest creations. The exhibit, we knew, would be what is called an installation - a large piece of art made from different materials in the spirit of a sculpture of sorts. When we first arrived, we were not sure what to make of the installation. This is what we saw:


We spoke to Suzanne, the artist, shortly after arriving, and as it turns out, her installation was in memoriam of the attack on the twin towers. Once she explained her vision on the piece, it made much more sense. She explained that the black tower on the left represented the charred remains of a tower, an acknowledgement of the event and all that had been lost. The golden tower on the right was a symbol of hope and re-building for the future. It was an interesting creation to see in person...the photo really does not do it justice. It was a unique piece of art, and one that was special to see on this anniversary. I am glad to have had to opportunity to commemorate the day in some small way.

Suzanne also had a set of three other pieces which were also created to honor 9/11. These were abstract glass dioramas, created on a smaller scale than the installation.







On this day and all days, may we never forget those we lost and all of the brave heroes who stepped forward for their country and their fellow Americans.

Foto del Giorno

Nestled among the distinguised busts and classical sculptures in Villa Borghese, we stumbled across this sculpture. Titled Modern Heroes by sculptor Mauro Perucchetti, it depicts Batman and Superman in a style reminiscent of The Creation of Adam in The Sistine Chapel. 
Taken July, 2011 - Villa Borghese, Roma 

Sick Day Scare

Sick days. We've all been guilty of, at one time or another, cashing one in for a reason other than an illness. A gorgeous sunny day, a happy hour that went on a bit too late, or one of those mornings when surrendering to the alarm clock and climbing out from under the covers is simply not an option. Italy has an interesting stance on sick days for those working in Aviation (and by interesting I mean very unfortunate). I am not sure if this policy extends to workers in general, but by Italian law, if a pilot must call into work to take a sick day (even just one) he must visit a doctor and submit paperwork from the visit within 24 hours to his employer. The effectively takes the "fun" out of the occasional sick day for any pilot working in Italy.

Recently, Roland had to take a day off because he was feeling, generally, a little bit unwell. There was no extreme sickness, just an uneasy stomach and some cold symptoms. He didn't need a doctor, but as the visit was madatory due to law, he went in. Luckily for him, there is a physician's office around the corner from us that caters specifically to pilots. This means, at the very least, there is never a wait or inconvenience to see a doctor. He came home who two prescriptions: One was dissolvable vitamin C tablets. Understandable. The other was a Drug called Aulin. Due to the language barrier, Roland hadn't quite understood what this was for. So I looked it up and was, effectively, shocked by what I found. Apparently, Aulin (the generic name for a drug called Nimesulide) does not sit at the top of the list of high quality drugs which are safe and widely prescribed. In fact, it is quite the opposite. The drug is an anti-inflammatory (NSAID) used to treat acute pain and osteoarthritis. As soon as I typed in the name of the drug on Google, I found page after page of cautions and warnings on its unsafe track record. It has never been approved for use in countries such as USA, UK, Canada, Australia New Zealand, among many others, in view of concerns over its safety profile. It has, in fact, been reported to be a contributing factor in hundreds of cases of liver disease and a number of resulting deaths. Many European countries have investigated Aulin and consequently banned the drug. And then there is Italy...

Interestingly, in 2008, an Italian news agency came forward after having received videotape of a top-ranking official at Italy's medicines agency, AIFA, accepting bribes from pharmaceutical companies. The bribes were given to ensure that a number of drugs, Aulin (Nimesulide) being the most prominent, would avoid scrutiny by drug-investigating authorities in Italy. Although this was exposed in the media, the drug is obvioulsy still prescribed.

We found it pretty shocking, to say the least, that Roland received this drug after his visit. Whether it was a matter of a miscommunication due to the language barrier, we aren't sure, but he definitely was not suffering from acute pain or osteoarthritis. Obvioulsy, the medicine went in the trash. It goes a long way to show that we need to be extra-diligent about looking after ourselves in all respects here, especially as English speakers, when miscommunications with Italian speakers happen more often than not. Lesson learned!

Foto del Giorno

Little Roman Street Scene
Taken July 2011 - Trastevere, Roma

Friday, September 9, 2011

Foto del Giorno

Old-Fasioned Trunk
Taken 15 August 2011 - Roma Centro

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Foto del Giorno

I rarely leave home without my camera these days. I've been taking loads of photos, and I'm enjoying learning about photography and experimenting with photoshop and such. So, I've decided to start posting a Foto del Giorno, or Photo of the Day, here on my blog. I don't have time to write as often here as I'd like, so this will get me on everyday, as well as giving me a reason to experiment with photoshop more often. Hopefully these photos will give a little glance into the everyday things we stumble across here in Roma.

One of Rome's many stray cats, taking in some morning sunshine.
Taken 15 August 2011 -  Roma Centro

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

The Hideaway of the God of Wine

For his birthday last year, Roland recieved a really cool gift from his brother - a year long "adoption" of an olive tree in Italy. Near his birthday, Roland got a package in the mail from the company, called Nudo, explaining the gift: A specific tree in an olive grove in Offida, Italy had been designated as his. There was a photo of the farmer, Tziano, and a map of the tree's location, as well as an interesting explanation of the process of creating olive oil. As the tree's adoptive parent, he would receive two shipments of olive oil from the grove, including oil from his tree. One, which came in the spring, had several cans of extra virgin olive oil. The oil is delicious. We've almost finished it all off. We are still eagerly awaiting the fall package, which has several flavored oils such as lemon, pepper, and mandarin.

Our last remaining can of extra virgin olive oil

The gift also promised that, should the opportunity arise, the adoptive parent was welcome to come out to visit the grove and hug their tree. Living in Italy, naturally we could not let this opportunity go by. So last weekend, we took a drive out to Offida, which is about 150 miles northeast of Rome, on the East coast of the country. We decided to stay in a little Bed & Breakfast right next to the olive tree grove, the owner of which promised to show us around the grove and direct us to Roland's tree. The B&B was called Nascondiglio di Bacco, which translates to "Hideaway of the God of Wine." The name suited the place perfectly, as it was truly a hideaway. It was hidden away in the rural countryside of Italy, nestled among fields of grape vines and olive groves. When we finally found the place (not an easy feat) we were greeted by Bacco, a massive floppy black dog and namesake of the B&B. Bacco was king of the house,  wet-nosed greeting party, and lookout-dog extraordinaire. It was a lot of fun to have him around, since of course I have been missing Duke tons.

Bacco!


We were shortly thereafter greeted by Dwight, the owner of the B&B, who had an interesting story. He was an American former surgeon from St. Louis, who'd left his life behind in America to run the B&B and start a winery in Italy. He greeted us having just spent the day harvesting Merlot grapes from the field of vines next to the B&B (which we got to try - and were some of the tastiest grapes ever!). Since we arrived later in the day, we spent the first evening in the city center of Offida, which was hosting its annual Wine Festival, a showcase of all of the wines from local vineyards. For a small entrance fee, we were given a wine glass and set loose to taste all we could manage...39 different bottles were represented in the festival. Obviously, it was impossible to taste them all, but we made a good dent in them - and they were really good. We also had dinner by feasting on Italy's version of "street food"...mackerel hamburgers and deep fried olives stuffed with meats and cheeses.

At the festival. We were given bags to hold our wine glasses for easy eating of street food, etc.


The courtyard of the festival






After having our fill of wine we got some sleep and got up early to visit the olive grove. While we were having breakfast, the Olive farmer, Tziano, showed up at the B&B to welcome us and give us a bottle of wine as a gift to say thank you for coming out to the grove. Tziano's face is plastered on the back of each of our tins of olive oil at home, so it was kind of fun to see him in person. He stayed long enough to say hello and take a quick photo with us in front of an Olive tree at the B&B.

Me, Tziano, and Roland


After breakfast, Dwight took us on a walk into the grove to visit Roland's tree. He had a map to lead us to the proper tree. Roland and his tree were very happy to finally meet face to face.



Roland was also determind to give his tree a hug...even though the truck was only a couple of feet tall.


Thanking his tree for all of its delicious oil.


Last, Dwight took us on a little tour of his brand new winery. When he moved to Italy 4 years ago, he built the building and bought all of the wine-making equipment. He also planted all of the vines and started the whole operation from scratch. It was really interesting to get a taste of all that goes into wine making.

Roland checking out a new batch of merlot























A view of the grapevines from the vineyard


A view of the B&B from the winery next door





Just outside the B&B.

A big Thanks to Peter for giving us a great excuse to visit a place we'd otherwise probably never have stumbled upon...we loved it!