Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Ariccia, Italy...Porchetta Heaven

We found this little gem of a place at the suggestion of a friend, who raved about it's amazing pork restaurants. Hidden away about 17 miles from Rome, Ariccia is famous for it's "Porchetta." Those who know me, know that that would not usually be a convincing factor for me in choosing a place to visit...(case in point - I can count the number of times I've eaten pork in the last ten years on my fingers). However, after hearing our friend's enthusiastic description and seeing the resulting look of pleading in Roland's eyes (Please think this is a good idea! Please want to try it!), I decided to jump on the porchetta band wagon. And dare I say, I am converted.
Ariccia is a pretty little town, not unlike many of the pretty little towns surrounding Rome. Charming, picturesque, and sleepy. When we arrived at 8:30pm, it seemed as if the entire town had already closed up shop for the night...not even a gas station remained open! Luckily, our friend knew his way around and led us to a steep little stone staircase on the side of the road, which led down to another road that, to a pork connoisseur, would qualify as a little piece of heaven. Small restaurants lined both sides of the road, each looking very similar: long, wide rows of tables with a huge glass counter in the front, full of food. After we'd decided on one at the end of the road, I headed in, prepared to expand my culinary horizons.
The restaurant was authentic Italian - not a tourist in sight. When we walked in with my blonde sister, I felt what was probably every eye in the room on us, along with what I'm sure was the collective thought..."How'd they find us??" Nonetheless, we were greeted warmly and promptly given a table. The restaurant was not fancy - cheap tablecloths, paper placemats, and no frills. The food here, I found, makes enough of a statement on it's own. We were given a liter of wine and told to go back to the counter in the front of the room to make our selections. At the counter we were given what was seriously the largest tray I have ever seen to fill up with food. I thought there was no way we'd fill it - but we ended up filling two! The highlight, of course, was the pork. The cheerful man behind the counter cut meat directly from a pig that I'm sure had just been cooked that afternoon (I tried very hard to make eye contact with it as not to ruin the meal for myself...I could still make out it's little tail and feet!). We followed the following pattern for several minutes:

Man behind counter: Offers Roland a MASSIVE pile of sliced pork.
Roland: Just a little bit more, please...
Man behind counter: Offers Roland an even more MASSIVE pile of sliced pork.
Roland: Just a little bit more, please...
Repeat...
Repeat...
...Until we were the owners of a ridiculously large pile of porchetta.

Besides that, we filled our trays with the most delicious roasted potatoes I have ever tasted, stacks of fresh prosciutto sliced directly of the leg, HUGE slices of fresh "mozzarella di bufala," or buffalo mozzerella cut from the largest slab of cheese I have ever seen in my life, stuffed peppers and olives, thick slices of assorted cheeses, and bread. In one word: Feast.
The food was amazing - so fresh, there was no comparing it to anything I've ever eaten at home in the States. I found myself gazing around the crowded room at all of the Italians, wondering how in the world nobody seemed to be overweight. I must be missing something? For the record, I really enjoyed the sliced pork. I plan on turning over a new leaf and adding it to my cooking routine as well.
Besides the food itself, the dining experience was really interesting, and something you just don't get in the tourist-heavy center of Rome. The Italians, as best I can describe it, eat with gusto. Though it was just a random Thursday evening, is appeared as if each of the tables was having it's own little party. Countless times throughout the evening, groups of people burst into loud singing, clapping, hugging or shouting. You name it. The rowdy laughter and conversation never died down, and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves completely. I found myself thinking that the Italians really seem to get it right in this aspect...they know how to have a good time. Even if there was nothing to celebrate, it really felt like a celebration. I know we'll return again, and hopefully show more guests and friends a cool experience...you've all been warned. If you come to visit, bring your appetite!

Ps - Sorry that I don't have any photos from Ariccia...next time! Ciao!

6 comments:

  1. sounds fantastic ... i'm jealous! next time we see you in rome, it's a must.
    -kay

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  2. Um...bread, cheese and wine? I'm in. Not completely sold on the pork though :) Hopefully I'll make it to Rome sometime in the near future.

    Miss you!

    Jill

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  3. did you know that the chef, mario batali, refers to the pig as the "national hero of italy"? a portrait of a pig is the only piece of art hanging in one of his nyc restaurants. pork is very important in italian cooking. -kay

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  4. Sounds like a place Ernie would feel he had died and gone to heaven....I always say to him "eating is an event for the Italians".....they so enjoy their food and take the time to eat and savor everything.

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  5. Not much pork here in this Muslim country. We love it though, especially ham and bacon. Sounds like Roland went "hog wild" in the Porchetta palace. -- Eric

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  6. In the off-chance that you may remember any of the details, would you happen to recall what the name of the restaurant, street, or location was? I'm looking to go here while I am around Rome.

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